![]() Also, plan to let the tank in the car get VERY empty to reduce the amount of fuel you'll need to siphon out of it. The Spectra Premium MZ17A tank I bought comes raw.not stainless, not galvanized, not painted.just bare steel with a light layer of viscous rust preventative oil so if your choice of tank is the same then you might want to pick up some primer and underbody coating in rattle cans from Home Depot and get the tank painted a few days beforehand. New fuel tank (I used a Spectra Premium MZ17A)įuel pump housing gasket (Included with the MZ17A)Īcetone/Alcohol to clean off the rust preventative oil and Primer/Paint for new tank (optional)ġ-1/2" to 1-3/4" hose clamp if you have to cut the fuel filler hose clamp ![]() I say optional because I don't own one but it seems like it would help a ton but I'm not sure if I could have gotten the tool in there, anyways. Optional: Radiator hose pick to help disconnect hoses. Prybars (Harbor Freight #1654 worked well) Sawzall or 4" or 6" diameter cut-off tool or cutting torch I was one of the first to get the fuel pump leak so maybe I'm one of the first of a bunch of rotted tanks.Ĥ jack stands or two jack stands and two ramps I decided to do a write up or "How to" as a companion piece to my post about replacing the fuel pump housing from a few years back. It was a tiny leak but it was dripping onto the shield and creating a lot of surface area to evaporate from and really stink up the area around the car. The Protege5 was smelling like gas so I thought my fuel pump housing was leaking again but it turned out that the bottom of the tank was "sweating" gas through some pinholes near the drivers side control arm.
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